Sunday, October 14, 2012

To Market, to Market

Let's not speak of the 6-plus-month hiatus in blogging. Got a little busy. In brief, the immersion program in Quito was amazing, finishing Spanish was grueling, "tradecraft," or training in consular, political/economic, and public diplomacy, was interesting, and a week-long class in diplomatic history was waaaaayyyy more interesting than anticipated. Now after a whirlwind drive with 3 dogs and a cranky cat to Houston and a super-easy flight to Managua, we're here.

The Freedom Chariot, Doug's brand new truck, arrived about 5 weeks after we did, allowing us to get around without relying on the kindness of others. We drove (OK, D drove - I haven't done so since I drove the truck back from it getting dropped off the first day) to the grocery store, to the embassy grounds, to a hiking spot, and, exhaustingly, to far-away Esteli for a day trip.

Yesterday we felt up to tackling Huembes market, the country's second largest and the largest we're advised to visit, located fairly nearby in Managua. Our mission? A garden hose and a ten-foot ladder, two items the gardener is sick and tired of being without. As we drove out, the day guard said to be careful of car vandals or robbers in the parking lot.  Hmmm.

Found the parking area on the first try, paid 40 cents to the handicapped guards' association that protects the parking area, tipped the closest (non-handicapped) guard another 80 cents, and were immediately besieged by guys offering to attach all the bling on the truck with little screws. Thinking that was ridiculous, we walked off indignantly, gradually noticing that every other vehicle had little screws fastening the make/model chrome bits to the body. So we walked back and haggled down the number of required screws and the total price. At that, the salesman ran off to get the workers, who approached with a hand-drill and recommendations that we double the number of screws, pointing out where a single letter was popped off an under-secured model name on an adjacent car. When they started talking about how to secure the hub covers, that was it. We realized that not buying the "service" would guarantee that all the chrome would be gone on our return and that driving home and taking a taxi in both directions would be cheaper, less stressful, and less destructive to the truck. So we drove to a shopping center, hopped the bus for a dime a piece, a little adventure in itself, and finally made it to Huembes.

The market is written up in many tourist guides. We didn't end up getting a hose or a ladder there (the hardware store had great ladders, and the Costco equivalent finally had hoses - better quality at lower prices than the market), but we did haggle on hose prices, inhale a year's worth of carbon monoxide from the charcoal cooking fires, stand in line for 10 fresh-made tortillas (gone by the end of breakfast today!), purchase a bread tray of beautiful local wood, marvel at the variety of organ meats on offer, and go googly-eyed over the piñatas, flowers, kitchen supplies, handicrafts, beauty supplies, barbers, dead gringo clothes stands, and lunch places. They say if it ain't at Huembes, you don't need it. Hot and tired and after roaming around for a half hour or so before finding the tortilla stand again (note to self: if you want it, get it when you see it), we grabbed some fresh and affordable peppers, tomatoes, and jalapeños on the way to the taxi stand. I think the taxistas were snickering a bit at our destination - from Huembes market to the snootiest mall in town, where we'd parked the truck, safe and sound and free from hucksters and predatory "guards."

No photos this time; maybe next time.

Today we'd planned to go to the Granada Jockey Club to watch the horse races, but we're opting instead for a day of beer-brewing (a recently acquired hobby) and football watching. The market was enough excitement for one weekend.

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